Another South of France: The Ariège

The rough country of Languedoc, part of which is now the "département" of Ariège of southwestern France, spreads before the eye with rolling hills, jutting white rock formations and magnificent forest land. Here the ruins of chateaux tell tales of the medieval history of this remote reach of France, when the crusades were begun to rout out the religious cult of the Cathars. Battles here joined the Count of Toulouse with the incipient forces of the Inquisition to tame a native and unique culture at the foot of the Pyrenees, as today's France slowly took shape. Between the ancient history of the caves and land, its medieval color, its strong cultural character and sharply distinct landscape, the Ariège is an often overlooked but captivating side of France.

One of the colorful, medieval cities of the Ariège is Mirepoix, settled by one of the first crusaders of the Albigensian crusade against the Cathars, Count de Lévix. The market and shops covered by porticos reflect the history of Mirepoix, a history of troubadors and magic and the strong local culture.

Nearby the church of Vals mounts steeply up from its cave foundations. Originally occupied in the Bronze Age, Vals was built up later by early Christian settlers. The first church was built into a cave, from which the present stairway climbs between ancient rock walls. At the next level are frescoes: the apostles, the annunciation and the adoration of the magi, in a Catalan romanesque style, byzantine with elaborate animals of great vitality. At the top is the 14th c. chapel and a view of the countryside.

But for the earliest history of the region visit the cave at Niaux. Part of the "Pyrenean metropolis" of Magdalenian caves, settled by hunters 15,000 years ago, the cave at Niaux has examples of the few prehistoric drawings that visitors can actually see at close hand. The extraordinary beasts were drawn with such mastery that their vitality still startles the visitor. In the Salon Noir are bisons, horses, ibex and deer, drawn with the curvature of the water-formed rock in a chamber of cathedral-like dimensions and acoustics. Interestingly the drawings were made over the course of a thousand years, yet are similar in style. Other intriguing drawings of dots and lines suggest symbolic meanings.

The rocky heights of the ruins of the Chateau at Montségur commemorates the last episode of the crusade against the Cathars, a religious cult that swept Languedoc in the 12th and 13th centuries. Montségur also signifies the end of the Langedoc, a unique region with its own language that was sacrificed to the creation of today's France.  Little remains of an actual chateau, but the rocky heights testify to a bastion that withstood a siege of nearly a year before the forces of the pope--some estimated 10,000 men--could penetrate the chateau in 1244. None of the Cathars surrendered however. All the religious faithful inside went to their martyrdom willingly though they had been offered the chance to convert to save their lives. More than 250 pure souls were burned at the stake.  A museum in the village below details the history and confessions obtained from the Cathars of the region.

The nearby Chateau de La Garde was mostly destroyed during the French Revolution, but remains a dramatic monument to the same crusaders, who were given this chateau as well following the conquest of the region.

The Chateau of Roquefixade, which also sheltered Cathars, exists only as a beautiful ascent of rocky paths leading to romantic ruins, around which flutter blue butterflies like the wildflowers. The view as one climbs is extraordinary. The chateau was taken not by the crusaders but by the French king Philippe le Hardi in 1272. As in much of the region the Cathars continue to be of great interest--the late mayor there was a scholar--though any descendants remaining are more likely to come from the crusaders who killed them.

Similarly Foix, which is the administrative center of the Ariège, contains the cruel history of the crusades. Once part of Aquitaine, and then of the country of Carcassonne, the County of Foix was made a vassal of France by Philippe le Hardi. The chateau which overlooks the valley contains memories of the succeeding centuries as a prison, with script and drawings by prisoners carved into the stone, their ancient graffiti.

In the nearby department of Aude the Chateau of Puivert was also a Cathar stronghold that was subjected to siege and taken in 3 days, in 1210. Today it is privately owned, and contains restored rooms, deep in the keep, that recall the dark cells of military councils. In upper stories a decorative hall of leisure, with troubador musicians carved into the romanesque ceilings and displays of instruments, recalls the life of the nobility in those early days. The upper tower has a chapel of the 14th century, overlooking what was once the chateau's expanse, now the territory of a few wandering goats. The view from the top of the tower is superb.

One also sees, in the country side, the distinct style of the region in bell towers, as in the church of Ste. Cecile.

In the tiny village of Léran where we stayed in August, villagers and visiting children re-enact some seven centuries of the region's history in a pageant and parades throughout a weekend each year. Local equestrian stables and performers gather to complete the authenticity of the outdoor shows, locals sew costumes, and children are summoned to the Léran chateau grounds to rehearse in the evenings. The beautiful re-telling of history keeps alive the high drama that preceded France as we know it, and that is still preserved in the very rocks and forests of this intense region.